Hitachi Drill Drivers

Hitachi DS18DL 18v Drill Driver

Hitachi Ds18Dl 18v Cordless Drill Driver

Features:
- High spec drill /drivers with all new Lithium Ion batteries
- Long life - unique protection circuit gives up to 1300 battery cycles
- Light weight - 40% lighter than Ni-MH batteries
- Standard battery fitting, compatible with existing Hitachi cordless tools
- 'Save power' mode reduces power to 55% - ideal for drilling smaller holes
- High maximum torque of 64Nm

Specifications:
Capacity: - Mild Steel - 13mm
Capacity :- Soft Wood - 50mm
Chuck Capacity: - 13mm
Battery: - 2 x EBM1830, 3.0Ah Li-Ion
No-Load Speed:- 0-200, 0-400, 0-800, 0-1600 /min
Torque Setting: - 22 stage
Maximum Torqu:e: - 64Nm
Overall Length: - 234mm
Weight: - 2.1kg

Fantastic examples of 12v Cordless Drill Drivers include the Black & Decker CP12KB 12v Drill Driver, Bosch PSB12VE-2 12v Drill Driver, DeWalt DC727KA 12v Drill Driver, Hitachi 12DVF3 12v Drill Driver, Makita 312DWDE3 12v Drill Driver, and including the Ryobi CHD1202 12v Drill Driver

In the event that 14.4v Cordless Drill Drivers are better suited, then be sure to review the Black & Decker CD14CA 14.4v, Bosch PSR 14.4v, DeWalt DC731KBV 14.4v, the Hitachi DS14DVF3 14.4v,Makita BHP442z 14.4v, and the Ryobi CHD-1441 14.4v

To adapt to your 18v Cordless Drill Drivers needs, go take a look at the Black & Decker CD18CA 18v, Bosch PSR18-2 Li-Ion 18v, DeWalt DC729KA 18v, Hitachi DS18DFL 18v, the Makita BDF452z 18v or the Ryobi CHD-1801M One+ 18v

Drill Drivers & Safety

Power tools have revolutionised the way in which we do our day-to-day DIY work and cordless drill drivers have become an essential component of all DIY tool kits. Drills have proven to be invaluable for most maintenance and repair tasks around the house and no power tool collection is complete without one.

A Hammer Drill is not only able to provide a rotary motion but might also apply a small amount of hammer action to the drill bit, as though someone was tapping the back of the drill while the bit was spinning. This enables the drill to work through masonry. A Hammer Drill will typically have the ability to switch the hammer action off and on as required. You will find that motor wattages start around 600w for this type of drill and a good idea is to look at machines with around a 700w motor, these will enable you to drill masonry with up to a 16mm bit. This type of drill is a good all rounder for the home.

An adjustable clutch is what separates electric from cordless drill drivers. Located just behind the chuck, the clutch disengages the drive shaft of the drill, making a clicking sound, when a preset level of resistance is reached. The result is that the motor is still turning, but the screwdriver bit isn't. A clutch provides you control so you don't strip a screw or overdrive it once it's snug. It also helps protect the motor when a lot of resistance is met in driving a screw or tightening a bolt. The number of separate clutch settings varies on the drill; better drill drivers have at least 24 settings. With that many clutch settings, you may really fine-tune the power a drill driver delivers. Settings with the lowest numbers are for small screws, higher numbers are for larger screws. Many clutches also have a drill setting, which allows the motor to drive the bit at full power.

Factors such as temperature, the material being drilled, whether the drilling is nonstop or intermittent, and the whether the battery is at full charge or not will affect a cordless drill driver's battery charge. The standard time required to charge a battery pack will vary from one hour to overnight, depending on the type of tool and charger. Recharge when the drop in performance and power is noticeable. Don't wait until the tool quits working to recharge the battery.

Nickel-metal-hydride (NiMH) batteries represent the latest breakthrough in batteries. They're smaller and run longer than standard nickel-cadmium (Nicad) batteries. NiMH batteries also pose less of a hazard when it comes to disposal than Nicads because they don't contain any cadmium, which is highly toxic. Makita, Bosch, Hitachi and DeWalt offer NiMH batteries, and other manufacturers will soon produce these power cells too.

If a Li-ion battery is stored with too low a charge, there is a risk of allowing the charge to drop below the battery's low-voltage threshold, resulting in an unrecoverable dead battery. Once the charge has dropped to this level, recharging it may be dangerous. Some batteries therefore feature an internal safety circuit which will stop charging in this state, and the battery will be for all practical purposes dead. In circumstances where a second Li-ion battery is available for a given device, it is recommended that the unused battery be discharged to 40% and placed in the refrigerator to prolong its shelf life. While the battery may be used or charged immediately, some Li-ion batteries will provide more energy when brought to room temperature.

When drilling deep or large holes, it is best to drill a small pilot hole first. This is very helpful when drilling deep holes because it's sometimes easier to keep the hole straight with a smaller bit. A larger bit will then normally follow the pilot hole. When drilling larger holes, especially in metal, the pilot hole opens an area in the metal to accommodate the tip of the larger bit so the cutting surfaces may more easily reach the uncut metal. Once you've drilled your hole, you'll probably find a burr on the back surface of your material. This may be removed by lightly drilling the back side of the hole with a larger bit. If the material is thin, such as sheet metal, instead of a burr you may find the material is actually distorted leaving a ragged hole. This be prevented by sandwiching the material between two pieces of wood before you drill the hole. As with all tools, exercise caution, wear safety equipment and learn to use the tools properly.

There will be occasions when you have to drill a hole at an angle. In these cases drill carefully. You may draw a pencil line on the material noting the angle and then try to follow that pencil guide as you drill. There are also angle guides you may use. Place these over the spot you want drilled with the guide calibrated at the correct angle. Insert the drill bit into the guide and drill away. If you are drilling completely through the material when the drill bit begins to exit out the other side of the material be careful, especially with wood. The drill bit exiting the wood may splinter the wood around the exit point. If it will show, you might want to sand it smooth. Better yet stop the splintering by covering the exit point with masking or duct tape. The tape will decrease should not stop the splintering.

Although not a true 'drill', countersink drill bits are used in a power or hand drill to form the conical recess for the heads of countersunk screws. These drill bits tend to be manufactured for use on soft materials such as timber and plastics, not metals. When used with a power drill to counter sink an existing hole, the bit tends to 'chatter', leaving a rough surface. Better results will be obtained should the countersink bit is used before the hole is drilled, then take care to ensure that the hole is in the centre of the countersunk depression. Countersinks are available with fitted handles so that they may be used by hand twisting, often easier than changing the bit in the drill when only a relatively few holes need countersinking. Sharpening may be difficult, but may be done with a fine triangular file. Tile drill bits are those drill bits used for drilling ceramic tiles and glass. They have a ground tungsten carbide tip. They may be used with a hand drill, but are best used in a variable speed power drill on a slow speed. When drilling glass, some form of lubricant (i.e. turpentine or white spirit) could be used to keep the tip cool. Ceramic tiles may also be drilled using a masonry bit should it is used at slow speed and without hammer action. Sharpening is difficult because of the hard tungsten carbide and curved cutting edge. With care and patience, a blunt edge may be made good using an oilstone. Intended for power drill use only, the centre point locates the bit and the flat steel on either side cuts away the timber.

DIY Safety tips:

If a fuse blows for no obvious reason or an appliance is not working properly, turn off the appliance at the plug and unplug it before trying to find out why. If the fault can't be found or you are uncertain how to find the fault, get expert advice. The same principles apply to fuse boxes or circuit breakers - always turn off at the mains before you investigate and remember to replace the cover before switching back on.
When fixing or checking electrical appliances or connections, always turn off the power and remove the fuse or circuit breaker (MCB). If you're fixing an electrical appliance, turn off the appliance at the plug and pull out the plug. Wear rubber-soled shoes when working on electrics. Cover electrical switches which are broken. Switch off at the mains and remove the fuse to that line, and keep it with you, so even should the power is switched on accidentally the line will stay dead and not you, while you carry out a job. The tapes are a reminder for you and a warning to others. Call in professional help should you do not know what you are doing.

Always keep a chemical fire extinguisher in the house. Never use water to put out a fire in an electrical appliance. Gas and electrical work is best left to a registered professional.

New appliances have to be supplied with a plug that is fused in accordance with manufacturers' instructions. Always follow manufacturers' recommendations for fuses, or seek expert advice. Check older appliances such as electric blankets and Christmas tree lights. If a fuse blows for no obvious reason or an appliance is not working properly, turn off the appliance at the plug and unplug it before trying to find out why. The same principles apply to fuse boxes or circuit breakers - always turn off at the mains before you investigate and remember to replace the cover before switching back on. If you need to change a mains fuse, check the correct rating for that circuit - the blown fuse might have been incorrect in the first place. Using a thicker fuse wire than the correct rating is dangerous.

Be sure you know the correct way to use all the tools. Many have very sharp blades.